Last Days Of The Coo Coo Cafe

The Coo Coo Cafe is marked by the MPW for destruction in order to expand the sides of the road from Monrovia to Gbarnga

THE YELLOW MARK 

I remember traveling the road to Buchanan in 2011 and I kept seeing all of these yellow marks on the buildings as we drove by, which naturally led me to ask, "What do those yellow marks mean?"    

The Yellow 'X' on the Coo Coo Cafe signals her last days

In short, it means that those structures are marked for destruction so that roads can be built.  In practice it means that the MPW (Ministry of Public Works) goes around and decides how much money a person will get for the building they are about to destroy and then spray paints it with a yellow mark.  Many churches, homes, businesses, structures, etc. have met their fate due to the notorious yellow X. 

Across the street from the Cafe one can see the yellow 'x's on the gate and fence in front of the Coo Coo Nest Hotel

Liberian Historic Sites Marked For Destruction

I was saddened to learn that the Coo Coo Cafe and some of its surrounding structures were also marked by the MPW for destruction.  This is an area of great historical significance to Liberia as it represents the glory days of the Tubman era.  In this spot just south of Totota President Tubman had his 6,000 acre rubber tree farm, his getaway mansion, a hotel named after his daughter which was called the Coo Coo Nest, and this restaurant: The Coo Coo Cafe.

The Coo Coo Nest Fountain and Tower are also marked
the dreaded yellow 'x'

Besides the Coo Coo Cafe, several other Tubman era structures are also marked for destruction.  This includes the fence and gate to the Coo Coo Nest, the tower sculpture and fountain in front of the Coo Coo Nest (which was sculpted by Tubman's son), and the Elephant Tusk Gate and guard house that leads up to the mansion and the one-time zoo that I visited as a child.  I overheard that the total payout by the MPW appraisers for all of these structures is $300,000 USD.  I doubt it will go to revitalize what is left of this beautiful property, but who knows? 

Me standing by the yellow 'x' on the Elephant Tusk Gate that leads to the Tubman Mansion and abandoned zoo.
The Guard House behind is also marked for destruction

Has Liberia Spoken on the Tubman Legacy?

It might seem that Liberia has spoken about how she feels about president Tubman.  Several of his magnificent structures are today in disarray.  His Center for African Culture in Robertsport was in shambles when I visited it in 2011.  I have no idea how bad it looks now.  His zoo was looted and/or shipped out of country to the Ivory Coast.  His mansion lies vacant and is a home to thieves, rotting taxidermy, and bats.  And lastly his 'eternal' flame on his grave has long since been extinguished.     

This picture shows the entire Elephant Tusk Gate in her last days. June 2013

However, an opposing case could be made that Liberia loves Tubman in that they commemorate him on their $20LD bill, they have a High School named after him in Monrovia, and a University in Harper.  Whatever the case, he was a powerful force that one is unable to ignore when studying Liberia's history and even current events.  Tubman may have left his mark, but today many of his structures find themselves marked for destruction.

The old metal Buchanan Welcome Sign was also removed when the road to Buchanan was paved.
Some say it will return but time will tell.  Picture taken in 2011

In summary, that road I mentioned from Monrovia to Buchanan is now completely paved and the travel time is even comparable to US standards!  (As a side: I hope that the road lasts through this rainy season as there was water just feet from it at the beginning of the season in June and I saw no drainage system.  It was lowest bidder, Chinese construction from what I've been told.)  Now it is the road from Monrovia to Gbarnga that is underway.  Liberia seems to be saying, "full steam ahead!" and also that some of her past is something she would rather just pave over.  

On the road to Gbarnga June 2013

Push-ups And Rainbow Lizards

The Rainbow Agama of Liberia

One of the first things that welcomed me on my return to Liberia in 2011 was an orange-headed lizard doing push-ups on a rock just outside Roberts International Airport. He bobbed his head up and down like he was excited to see me and when I saw him the childhood memories suddenly flooded over me. I actually found myself smiling as I whispered aloud, "hello, my friend."  

Introducing Mr. Agama Agama

Mr. Agama poking his head over a concrete well base

Technically these lizards are called Agama Agama, but like Gandolf they go by many names: Common Agama, Red-Headed Rock Agama, or Rainbow Agama. In my sophistication I like to refer to them as "lizards" or "those lizards with orange heads".  

..And He Made Them Male and Female...

There are actually two types of Agama one will see; one is just more or less brown and one has an orange-ish colored head (and sometimes a dark blue body).  Like many species in the animal kingdom the males are the prettier ones here. I guess they need to show off in order to get the ladies' attention as this practice of turning color only happens during mating season. As if this weren't enough they also like to climb up on rocks during this season and start busting out a massive amount of push up reps.  It ends up looking like they are headbanging or be-bopping if you ask me.  Hey, if it works....

I see a little orange on the body here so I don't know if this is a juvenile male or a female agama.  My guess is a male juvenile. There are some that are even more brown, but they all have this sort of  'cryptic' patterning.

The males are also territorial and will fight to keep their hood. It is fascinating to watch them fight. They do a lot of side winding and tail whipping. It is quite the sight! The loser is sent away to another patch of area to set up his domain, and the winner presumably gets to continue flaunting his pretty head while doing push ups in front of all his neighborhood ladies.

These Things Are Everywhere!

A male is perched upon the tin roof (rather blurry -- sorry). Two females climb the walls running away as I approach

It is not uncommon to see scores of these lizards all scurrying across a rock landscape or the side of a heated concrete wall (as if there were any other type of concrete wall in Liberia). It can be a little startling at first when you see a group of agama scurry; it almost looks like the wall is alive until your eyes focus and you make out the small village of lizards running in all directions.  

Three agama watch with suspicion as I bring the camera closer

For the most part these lizards do seem to be skittish. Perhaps it is just my "kwee-poo" clumsiness but the agama tended to run away from me whenever I got within just 10 feet. This is why I kicked myself for not having a good zoom on my camera in 2011. This past trip I had a better zoom and so I snapped a few pics of them in my free time. I also included a few of my older pics in this mix that are not of the best quality, but I just wanted you to get a glimpse of these fascinating Liberian lizards.  In my opinion they are part of what makes Liberia, Liberia; even though my Liberian friends laughed at me for 'wasting pictures' on lizards! :-) Hope you have enjoyed!

They also seem to have an almost chameleon like quality which makes it a challenge to photograph.  Can you see the one male blended in just to the left of the hole in the wall?

There are actually 3 agama in this pic. Can you spot them?

My friends here found it very humorous that I wasted pictures on lizards.  They figured themselves to be better subject matter. I agree!  God bless Liberia!

The Liberian Teddy Bear

Teddy Bears chilling on the living room curtain rod

 There is hardly anything that can put a smile on my face like the ubiquitous Liberian "teddy bear".  In Liberia all stuffed animals are called "teddy bear" (pron: teh day beh) whether they are actually a bear or not, and these guys are found everywhere! 

Elmo is watching you!

In fact, whenever you enter a Liberian home do not be surprised to find these 'teddy bears' being used as a form of interior decor in many of the main living areas.  In other words, these 'teddy bears' are not relegated to the bedroom of children as is often the case in the States, but rather they are proudly put on full display in prominent places all throughout many Liberian homes.  I for one have to say that there is something about seeing Sonic the Hedgehog chilling out with Boots, Scooby Doo, and Elmo on top of a window curtain in the middle of Liberia that just brings out feelings of awesome and childhood glee. 

Scooby and Eeyore look forlorn. Is it because they mourn the ineffectiveness of these non-functioning donated CRT monitors?

Nothing can keep you company
quite like a giant purple
dinosaur!

I'm not sure of the cultural significance or the feng shui of this phenomenon, but I have to tell you I really enjoy seeing Liberian 'teddy bear' decor and hope that you have enjoyed this brief taste of it as well. And you know, at the end of the day, who doesn't want to come home to some colorful, huggable, soft, fluffiness? I hope you've enjoyed these decorating ideas straight from the Land of Liberty...

Yes, this frog and bunny would both be called 'teddy bear' in Liberia.

Boots!

The Strawberry Shortcake TV dust cover goes with the theme.

This purple guy always put a smile on my face when I walked into the room, although I somehow felt some uneasiness (perhaps for the safety of the Easter chicken on the stereo speaker?).

As a side note: pay no attention to calendars on the wall in Liberia. They are often just there for decoration as well and are usually several years old.

Relaxing with friends is always best done with teddy bears around you! Peace to Liberia!